Honda 8-97083-110-5 Oil Pump Assembly

Pull the oil pan, then, undo the pump-to-rear main bearing cap bolt and separate the pump and the extension shaft from the engine. The pump has to be fitted into its place and the top extremity of the hexagonal extension shpould be fitted inti the hexagonal receptacle present at the lower portion of the distributor drive gear; the distributor is supposed to drive the oil pump. Then torque the oil pump-to-rear main bearing cap bolt to its required specification before replacing the oil pan.

To remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket, first take off the oil pan. Unbolt the oil pump pickup from the oil gallery assembly by removing the mounting bolts. Disconnect the oil pump "elbow" connection from both the oil pump and the oil gallery assembly by removing four bolts. Unbolt the air conditioning compressor and set it aside without disconnecting the hoses, then unbolt the compressor bracket from the engine, ensuring to remove any hidden bolts. Remove the oil pump-to-engine block bolts from the front of the engine, gently tapping the pump loose with a hammer and block of wood, noting that only the outer two bolts need to be removed to detach the oil pump with the cooler adapter. Use a block of wood and a hammer to break the oil pump loose, pulling it straight off due to the dowels that locate it in the block. Remove old sealant from the oil pump and engine block mating surfaces using a scraper and clean them with lacquer thinner or acetone. Remove the screws holding the rear cover to the oil pump, clean all components with solvent, and inspect for wear and damage. Check the oil pressure relief valve cover, spring, and valve, ensuring the valve slides freely; if not, the pump must be replaced. Measure clearances with a feeler gauge, including case-to-outer rotor clearance, clearance above the rotors, and clearance between the rotors, replacing the entire oil pump assembly if any clearances are excessive. Pack the cavities of the oil pump with petroleum jelly to prime it, assemble the pump, and tighten the screws to the specified torque. Apply a small bead of RTV sealant to the back of the oil pump and install it on the block immediately. Installation follows the reverse order of removal, aligning the flats on the inner rotor of the oil pump with those on the crankshaft and tightening all fasteners to the specified torque values, ensuring new O-rings are installed in the oil transfer "elbow" and the oil pump pickup tube.

If you discover that the steering pump is bad, don't attempt to overhaul it since it will require special tools, let your dealer service department do the overhauling or source for a factory rebuilt unit. However, this is a task you can do on your own by attaching a receptacle that will hold the power steering fluid and unscrewing the hoses connected to the pump body, remembering to place a cap or adhesive tape on the outlets of the hoses and over the pump outlets to prevent contact of the contents with differing substances or dust. To lose some of the tension on the pump pulley, use the screwdriver to reach through one of the pulley holes in order to lift the pulley enough to hold it whilst giving the bolts a first loosening turn: the pump cannot be unbolted from its mounting bracket until the pulley is disconnected. Subsequently, pull off the pump drivebelt, after that and the pump pulley bolts and the pulley, and finally the pump-to-bracket bolts to extract the pump. For installation the following is done in the reverse of the removal procedure: Ensure that there is enough space between the pressure line and the exhaust manifold when fixing the pressure line. Lubricate the drivebelt tension and fill the power steering fluid reservoir with the type of fluid recommended; bleed the power steering system and check for any signs of fluid leakage.