To remove the
Timing Belt, the crankshaft sprocket and the idler pulley, one has to, remove the crank shaft position sensor, the
Oil Pan and the oil pick-up screen, and if present, the oil level probe. Then, loose the oil filler adapter housing NTEC solenoid assembly from the front of the oil pump after which loosen the bolts to come off the oil pump housing from the engine if necessary use screwdriver to pry between the main bearing cap and the pump housing. For inspection, the pump cover can be removed using a large Phillips screwdriver by unscrewing the screws at the rear of the housing and lifting off the cover to inspect the pump rotors and check for wear or damage by using feeler gauges and if the pump is found wanting, then it should be replaced. Remove any old sealant on the pump body and the engine block and use a scraper on it but be careful not to scratch the aluminum. For installation, remove the old crankshaft oil seal and coat the new one with multi-purpose grease, whereby the seal lip should be greased, fill the pump cavity with petroleum jelly and fix the cover with the help of the thread-locking compound and tighten the screws evenly in a criss-cross manner. Wipe down the gasket surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner; coat the oil pump flange and the bolts required with the anaerobic sealant; the parts should be joined within 5 minutes of applying the sealant; replace the O-rings wherever necessary. Crank the oil pump drive rotor to the crankshaft, put in the pump, organize the mounting bolts that had been removed earlier and tighten up anew in a criss-cross manner. Replace the O-ring on the oil pick-up screen and snugly tighten the fasteners in position, then all other components in the reverse manner. The curing of the sealant takes 20 minutes after which oil is can be introduced, the engine can be started and the oil leaks and pressure checked, rechecking the engine oil level after operation.