To reject the clutch master cylinder, one has to uncouple the hydraulic pipe from the clutch master cylinder and discharge the fluid to a suitable jar, by using a flare nut wrench if possible in order not to mar the fitting. After that, under the dash, one should unlock the clevis pin securing the pushrod to the clutch pedal and then, as for the master cylinder, remove the flange mounting nuts to separate it from the firewall. In the case of the overhaul, the retaining clamp needs to be unscrewed, and the reservoir needs to be pulled off, after which the master cylinder has to be fixed in the vise, pushing down the piston after which remove the snap-ring with the help of snap-ring pliers or a tiny screw-driver. Remove the piston and spring in such a way that the sealing lip is in a forward position. This area, located internally on the cylinder bore, can develop scoring or bright wear and, in this eventuality, the master cylinder will need to be substituted entirely. If the bore in well-maintained, then get a rebuild kit which will consist of other vital components which will be replaced, these parts should be washed using brake fluid and then fitted. Replacing the parts, in a sequence in which they were removed; the piston seal lip should be positioned forward. Last but not the least, the clutch master cylinder should be fitted in place against the firewall, the pedal pushrod should be slid into place into the piston region should be tightened securely and the hydraulic system for the clutch should be bled followed by standardizing the height of the pedal and the degree of freeplay.