Honda 13310-PM3-010 Crankshaft

It's assumed the flywheel or driveplate, crankshaft vibration damper, timing belt, oil pan, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies have already been removed. The rear main oil seal housing must be unbolted and separated from the block before proceeding with crankshaft removal. Before removing the crankshaft, check the endplay by mounting a dial indicator with the stem in line with the crankshaft and touching one of the crank throws. Push the crankshaft all the way to the rear and zero the dial indicator, then pry the crankshaft to the front as far as possible and check the reading on the dial indicator; the distance it moves is the endplay. If it's greater than specified, check the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear, and if no wear is evident, new main bearings should correct the endplay. If a dial indicator isn't available, feeler gauges can be used by gently prying or pushing the crankshaft all the way to the front of the engine and slipping feeler gauges between the crankshaft and the front face of the thrust main bearing to determine the clearance. Loosen the main bearing cap bridge bolts 1/4-turn at a time until they can be removed by hand, using the opposite order of the tightening sequence, and note if any stud bolts are used to ensure they are returned to their original locations when reinstalling the crankshaft. Gently tap the bridge with a soft-face hammer, then separate the assembly from the engine block, using a large screwdriver as a lever if necessary, while trying not to drop the bearing inserts if they come out with the bridge. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine, ideally with the help of an assistant due to its weight, and with the bearing inserts in place in the engine block and main bearing caps, return the caps to their respective locations on the engine block and tighten the bolts finger tight.

Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes with a stone, file, or scraper to ensure the oil holes are chamfered, preventing sharp edges from gouging or scratching the new bearings. Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry it with compressed air if available. Check the main and connecting rod bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pits, and cracks. Rub a penny across each journal several times; if copper rubs off and embeds in the crankshaft, the journals should be reground. Inspect the rest of the crankshaft for cracks and other damage, using magnaflux to reveal hidden cracks, which an automotive machine shop can handle. Measure the diameter of the main and connecting rod journals with a micrometer, comparing results at several points to detect taper and out-of-round conditions. If the journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond limits, have the crankshaft reground by an automotive machine shop, ensuring the correct size bearing inserts are used if reconditioned. Check the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage; if grooves, nicks, or scratches are present, new seals may leak upon reassembly. An automotive machine shop may repair the journal by pressing on a thin sleeve, but if repair isn't feasible, a new or different crankshaft should be installed. Finally, examine the main and rod bearing inserts.

The upper thrust bearing should be replaced.

Install the flanged thrust washers in the number four cap and saddle.