Honda 10002-P28-A00 Cylinder Block General Assembly

Take off the main caps and unbolt the inserts from the caps and the block and label their positions. Scrape the entire block surfaces bare of gasket using a gasket scraper without scratching the sealing surfaces of the block. All covers and threaded oil gallery plugs must be removed-these may need to be drilled out and retapped if they are tight, and new plugs must be inserted as the new ones on assembly. Drive out the core plugs by placing one end of the hammer and punch against the side and striking it down then remove them using pliers. If the engine is heavily encrusted with dirt the block should be taken to an automotive machine shop for cleaning while for detailed cleaning the following process should be followed so as to ensure that all oil holes and galleries are clear dry and coated with light rust preventive oil; Using the appropriate size of tap, free the threaded holes on the block all ares that have been threaded by removing all dirt and having damaged thread by eliminating any debris using compressed air. Make sure the main bearing caps are properly aligned and place back the bolts before tightening the with only finger pressure. Apply sealant on the sealing face of new cores plugs and set them upright directly on the engine block as they should fit perfectly. Cure the new oil gallery plugs with non hardening sealant and then screw them into the block. If reassembly will not occur in the near future, put a large plastic trash bag over the engine in order to reduce the amount of dust that settles on it.

It is mandatory that the block must be cleaned before it can be inspected; this is useful. Clean the steel structure and make sure to observe the presence of cracks, rust or corrosion on the structure and also examine the threaded holes for stripped threads. It is recommended to take the block to an automotive machine shop that is capable of doing core tests for concealed cracks on it. In the event that there is formation of defects, then the block should be repaired or replace depending on the extent of the defect. Examine for scuffing / scoring, by taking off the cylinder head and using a micrometer, measure the diameter across the top, under the ridge, at the centre and at the bottom of the bores parallel to the crankshaft axis. These measurements should be taken with the block not clamped on an engine stand which in turn causes distortion. Select three reference points on a crankshaft's axis and measure each cylinder's diameter at those points and compare the findings. If the above precision measuring tools are not recalled, feeler gauge stock available at auto part dealers can be used to check piston to cylinder clearance. To check clearance, slip in a feeler gauge with the piston located as shown in fig. 37 and with the actual gauge between the piston and cylinder on one of the thrust faces. Normally the piston should move through the cylinder under moderate pressure; if one finds that the piston goes down with ease then it means that there is too much clearance and that means one has to acquire a new piston. Should the piston feel tightly fitted at the lower end and float at the upper end, then the cylinder bore is considered tapered, while if tight areas are felt while threading the piston/feeler gauge then the cylinder bore is out of round. Perform this process to the other pistons and cylinders that are still unfixed. If, however, the cylinder walls are excessively worn or scuffed, scored, out-of-round or tapered beyond limits, take the engine block to an automotive machine shop and have it rebored and honed, which will require the use of oversize pistons and rings. The block deck should also be checked for distortion using a precision straight edge and a feeler gauge laying the straightedge diagonally on the block. If the cylinders are intact, and one can achieve the piston-to-cylinder clearances, rebore is not required, and honing will suffice.

Before beginning engine reassembly, ensure you have all necessary new parts, gaskets, and seals, along with common hand tools, a torque wrench (1/2-inch drive), a piston ring installation tool, a piston ring compressor, short lengths of rubber or plastic hose to fit over connecting rod bolts, Plastigage, feeler gauges, a fine-tooth file, new engine oil, engine assembly lube or moly-base grease, gasket sealant, and thread locking compound. To save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly should be performed in the following general order: crankshaft and main bearings, rear main oil seal and retainer, piston/connecting rod assemblies, oil pump and oil pump pick-up, oil pan, cylinder head, camshaft and rocker arm assembly, water pump, timing belt and sprockets, intake and exhaust manifolds, timing belt covers, valve cover, and flywheel/driveplate.

It makes disassembly and work on the engine much easier. Portable engine stands can often be rented cheaply from equipment rental yards.

Essential equipment includes a heavy-duty floor jack, complete sets of wrenches and sockets, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spills.

For automatic transaxle models, remove the throttle control cable, speed sensor, lock-up control solenoid, and linkage, then access the torque converter by removing the inspection cover and cooler lines. Remove the crankshaft pulley and torque converter-to-driveplate bolts.