Honda 10002-P5M-A20 Cylinder Block General Assembly

In a total and complete overhaul or rebuild of an engine block, several parts of the block including the pistons, rings, bearings, timing belt or chain assembly and the oil pump are likely to be replaced, with overhead valve engines, the camshaft and the lifters are also likely to be replaced. Cylinders should be bored and honed on the block oversize, or suitable new removable cylinder sleeves should be installed, provided the crankshaft is machined undersize to provide new wearing surface and necessary clearances. If only the piston rings are worn and all the other components are still new and as from the factory, the practice of replacing just the rings is very rare; normally, rings, bearings, and the oil pump should be replaced when in what is called a 'freshen up.' Cylinder ridges which are formed because the top piston ring is unable to reach the top of the cylinder should be machined off before new pistons are fitted. Engine disassembly should be done when engine is supported on a stand or on a bench so as to enable one work on the connecting rods and crankshaft. Timing chain or gear assemblies, the oil pick up and pump assemblies and any balance shafts should be removed and the crankshaft should be visible to mark the connecting rods and main bearing caps. The crankshaft is later withdrawn following the loosening of the main bearing caps. All components should be checked for wear or damages using tools as well as visual examination should be accompanied by test such as magnaflux or Zyglo for cracks. Main bearing alignment should be checked, and any damages may entitle the owner to align-boring. The surface of the deck should be free from any debris and it must be horizontally aligned in order that its thickness and width can be measured to its standard size. Cylinder bores should be checked for roundness and for tapering which is, measurements should be taken at different positions. The surface of the crankshaft should be checked for any signs of ovality and should be peaked and any minor scratch marks should be removed. For pistons, the possibility of crack and wear must be looked into; connecting rods on the other hand must be scrutinized to determine their straight nature. Any engine bearing shall be visually inspected; severely worn bearings have to be removed and taken to a machine shop. It is also recommended that the oil pump needs to be dismantled, washed and checked whether it is working efficiently or not. It is common for an engine block to be refinished by a machine shop and if new pistons are needed, they have to be assembled properly. In assembly, hygiene is sacrosanct and components ought to be washed before being embedded. Crankshaft and pistons are to be thoroughly fitted and placed so that they fit perfectly and no extra clearance is given. For mounted engines of OHV type, the camshaft, lifters and timing assembly should be fastened first, then the cylinder heads as well as other valve train parts. For OHC engines, cylinder heads should be bolted and timing assemblies fitted; and all engine covers and other components replaced as they were prior to removal following notes and drawings made at the time.

To rebore an engine, replace it with a new one, pull out of the car and take apart to diagnose, ideally placing it on an engine stand, according to the car manufacturers instruction regarding the stand. When the Engine is ready to be mounted on stand, the flywheel/expiate should be removed and the internal oil and coolant purged, drained. This way, when you are taking out parts and fasteners during the demodelling process, then perhaps drawing pictures or labelling containers to indicate where things go, you'll find that there are many brackets and clips in modern engines that seem to look rather alike. First of, remove any of the accessories that may still be bolted on for instance the water pump, power steering pump, and the alternator before you proceed to remove the remaining manifolds. Last but not least, the rocker arm, front or timing cover, and oil pan should be removed; the specification should be mentioned that some front covers will not allow the vibration damper or crank pulley to be removed before they are taken off. The aim is to merely have the bare components such as cylinder head(s) or heads, valve gear, engine cast, crankshaft, piston and connecting rod apart from the in-block items such as the oil pump and balance shaft. Last but not the least, ensure you take off the cylinder head(s) from the engine block with a lot of care before putting them on a bench for further dismantling.

A growling noise could be due to a loose water pump or noisy tensioners.

The tools generally include items found in a mechanic's toolkit, with more extensive tasks necessitating specialized tools such as dial indicators, micrometers, and various pullers.

The engine number is the number on the right that is stamped directly onto the engine block.