Honda 01469-T0G-A01 Set, Master Power

Press the brake pedal several times when the engine's off, then check to see if the distance between the pedal and its stopping position stays the same. Push the accelerator when the engine's on - if it moves down even a little, your brakes are working correctly. Step onto the brake pedal a few times, beginning with the engine turned off. If the pedal sinks farther down when you press it the first time, but comes back up after the second or third try, this means your booster is sealed well. Keep the brake pedal engaged while powering down the engine; if the pedal stays in place when you hold the pedal for 30 seconds while running, the booster is holding its air properly. Experts warn against opening car brakes because their construction and how they work to stop vehicles make them too hard to fix; replacing old, broken brakes with fresh ones works best. Unbolt the brake master cylinder, detach the engine-to-boost hose, and protect the hose while you work to avoid harm. Unclip the brake lines from their holder on the cowl, and for CR-V owners, remove and set aside the wiring harness's clamp bolts. Take out the clevis pin that connects the pushrod to the brake pedal, then lay the retaining clip and clevis pin aside. Disconnect the pushrod clevis from its position on the pedal. Push the booster back through the firewall and take out the four nuts. Slide the booster straight off until the studs disengage from the firewall, then remove the entire booster, brackets, and gaskets from the engine bay. You can install the booster by just following the same steps in reverse order. After setting the booster correctly, don't forget to put in a fresh cotter pin for the clevis pin. Set up the master cylinder in place, then flush and fix the other parts of your brake system. Test and, when needed, adjust the height of the brake pedal and the free space it has before stopping.