The crankshaft can only be removed, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle, assuming that parts such as the flywheel, crankshaft pulley, timing chain, oil pan and others have been unbolted. Use a dial indicator to check crankshaft end play; the zero should read with crankshaft pried to rear, then measure when pried to front of the thrust; common end play includes a range between 0.004 and 0.014 inch. In the situation where a dial indicator cannot be used, feeler gauges are used to measure clearance. Turn the main bearing bridge perimeter bolts out slowly if present, take off the bridge if present and carefully lift out the crankshaft simultaneously taking off the crankshaft position sensor pulse plate. For installation, the engine block and crankshaft must be clean and inspected, Afterwards turn the block upside down and pull out the lower crankcase. Lubricate and scrape out old bearing metal and renew the upper main bearing inserts and check that the oil holes are correctly located. Ensure that the oil clearance of the main bearing is correct by the method of Plastigage, fit the lower crankcase or caps and without dismantling the Plastigage use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the right sequences. In the case of assessing the clearance, if it varies with the standard figures, incorrect bearing sizes or interference by dirt may be thought of. Wipe any Plastigage remaining on the crankshaft before reassemble and there's applying the layer of oil on the bearing surface and make sure the mating surfaces have no oil. Spread liquid gasket on the lower main bearing bridge and fasten it as soon as possible; the bolts of the liquid gasket should be tightened to a fixed torque. Crankshaft end play must be checked and felt to rotate as smoothly with little friction as possible. Last of all fit the new rear main oil seal and do not turn the engine for some time before filling it with oil or cranking it to start the car.