Before removing the oil pan the negative cable of the battery needs to be disconnected and the car placed on jackstands with the wheels off. Take off the under vehicle splash pan, siphon the engine oil and put a new engine oil filter. Remove the front wheel lug nuts, lift the vehicle a second time, and then secure it on jack stand only. Place the front wheels on a floor jack to pull out the direction and remove the front wheels. In 1997 and previous year models, both Pitman arm and idler arm must be removed to have the steering gear centre link drop down as far as the forward aspect of the oil pan. Secondly, have the flywheel inspection cover plate removed before pulling out two bolts which are on each side of the under-engine crossmember and then pull out the crossmember and the front axle assembly. For all models, the starter motor must be detached in order to access the last few pan bolts on the left side of the engine; the oil pan bolts are removed as well as the nuts, while a couple of these may be studs accompanied by nuts. Loosen the oil pan by unscrewing the bolts; you have to be very weary not to damage the sealing surfaces; if the pan is intimately fused to the engine, use a hammer and wood to remove it. To that it is necessary to remove all signs of the previously used sealant by means of a gasket scraper and a solvents such as lacquer thinner or acetone. For installation the threaded holes in the block should be clean, then put a thin continuous line of RTV sealant on the side of the oil pan flange and it should run inwards up to the bolt holes. Bolt the oil pan into position and use a three or four step pattern to tighten down the bolts to the correct torque. The remaining steps are the reverse of removal steps. It is usually advisable to take almost thirty minutes allowing the sealant to dry and then add oil into the crankcase start the engine, examine for oil pressure and any sign of leakage.